Project ZED 2024: MIAMI SWIM WEEK

THE SHOWS

Story by Terry Check     

The 4th Annual Project ZED, presented by Miami Swim Week®, transformed DUA Miami, Autograph Collection, into a vibrant hub of fashion, art, and culture during the highly anticipated Miami Art Week. This year’s theme highlights sustainability, celebrating the seamless blend of creative expression and eco-conscious innovation. Featuring acclaimed designers and celebrated artists, Project Zed promised an extraordinary showcase redefining the boundaries of art, fashion, and culture.

Masquerade Magazine was only available to attend the first show featuring the amazing designer, Ema Savahi. Additional designers included: Elsa Dress Couture, Playa Sol, Love For Upcycling, Mahogony Coast Swim, Hertage India Fashions and Megan Mae Miami Swimwear.

“Ex Nihilo” – out of nothing. This Latin phrase encapsulates the rare, enigmatic brilliance of individuals for whom creativity is as natural as breathing. For fashion designer Ema Koja, the concept of creating something entirely original is not merely an aspiration; it is her reality. Over the past two decades, Koja has redefined fashion by pioneering a unique blend of artistry and couture that has left an indelible mark on the industry. Koja introduced the groundbreaking concept of hand-painting intricate artwork onto garments. Her method, which transforms fabric into a canvas, results in three-dimensional textures that manipulate body shapes through optical illusion. This ingenious technique birthed a new identity in fashion — a marriage of art and design that is as visually stunning as it is innovative.

Koja’s creations are not mere garments; they are wearable works of art. Every piece begins as a figment of her vivid imagination, which she meticulously translates into both the artwork and the silhouette of the garment. This synthesis of design and decoration has garnered her a devoted following among style icons such as Katy Perry, Jennifer Lopez, and Tyra Banks, as well as countless women worldwide who appreciate her singular vision. For Koja, each woman is “a masterpiece in her own right, deserving of a frame as unique as she is.”

A Labor of Love and Collaboration

Although Koja’s creations appear effortlessly beautiful, their genesis is far from simple. Bringing these garments to life demands more than artistic vision; it requires the collaboration of a dedicated team. Seamstresses, pattern makers, and artisans work together to execute Koja’s designs with precision and care.

It is this dynamic interplay between individual creativity and collective craftsmanship where Koja truly shines. She thrives on inspiring others to tap into their imaginative potential. Nothing excites her more than mentoring young designers. She urges them to use the right side of their brain – to express themselves and create what has never existed before. Koja’s mentorship, though inspiring, is not without its challenges. It’s a difficult process, but it’s incredibly rewarding.

The Magic of Stretch Mesh and Moldable Resin

One of the standout features of Savahl’s designs is her use of avant-garde materials, including stretch mesh and moldable resin. These materials, which allow for unparalleled adaptability and durability, are central to her creative process. Stretch mesh is like a second skin – it moves with the body while maintaining its structure. Moldable resin enables us to create sculptural elements that bring a 3D effect to the garments. Developing this approach was a labor of love and innovation, pushing boundaries at every step.

These materials are not only functional but also artistic, enabling Savahl to create garments that are both visually striking and comfortable to wear. The stretch mesh enhances the wearer’s movement, ensuring that each piece feels as good as it looks, while the moldable resin adds a sense of drama and dimension. Together, these materials embody the fusion of form and function that defines Koja’s work.

Ema Koja’s Design Process

Ema Koja’s design process is an intricate journey that combines artistic vision, meticulous craftsmanship, and technical expertise. Each step is crucial to transforming her initial ideas into breathtaking final garments. Here is a closer look at her step-by-step process:

  1. Inspiration and Concept Development: Every collection begins with a spark of inspiration. This could come from nature, art, cultural symbols, or personal experiences. Koja often sketches her ideas in a journal, creating mood boards that capture the essence of the collection’s theme. For instance, her recent collection exploring chakras was inspired by the energy flow within the human body.
  2. Sketching and Silhouette Design: Koja creates detailed sketches of the garments, focusing on the silhouette and how it will complement the wearer’s body. She pays particular attention to how the design will interact with the artwork she plans to add, ensuring harmony between form and decoration.
  3. Artwork Creation: With the silhouette in mind, Koja designs the artwork that will adorn the garment. She often experiments with colors, textures, and patterns, striving for a balance between boldness and subtlety. The artwork is hand-painted, a process that requires precision and a deep understanding of color theory.
  4. Pattern Making: Once the sketches and artwork are finalized, Koja collaborates with her team of pattern makers to translate her designs into patterns. These patterns are carefully adjusted to ensure the garments fit perfectly and maintain the intended proportions.
  5. Material Selection: Koja selects high-quality fabrics that will best showcase the artwork and provide comfort to the wearer. The fabric must be compatible with her hand-painting technique and durable enough to hold its shape. Stretch mesh and moldable resin are often chosen for their unique properties that enhance both aesthetic and functionality.
  6. Prototyping: A prototype of the garment is created to test the design. Koja meticulously examines the prototype, making adjustments to the fit, artwork placement, and overall aesthetic. This step often involves multiple iterations until the garment meets her exacting standards.
  7. Hand Painting: The artwork is meticulously hand-painted onto the fabric by skilled artisans under Koja’s guidance. This step transforms the garment into a unique piece of wearable art. The three-dimensional textures and optical illusions are carefully crafted to enhance the design.
  8. Assembly and Sewing: The final garment is assembled by her team of seamstresses. Each seam, stitch, and detail is executed with precision to ensure the highest level of craftsmanship.
  9. Quality Control: Before the garment is deemed ready, it undergoes rigorous quality checks. Koja personally inspects each piece to ensure it meets her standards of beauty and functionality.
  10. Presentation and Styling: Once complete, the garments are styled and prepared for presentation. Whether for a runway show, a photoshoot, or a client fitting, Koja ensures every piece is showcased to its full potential.

From Tirana to the World Stage

Koja’s journey from the ancient city of Tirana, Albania, to the global fashion stage is a testament to resilience and determination. Born under a repressive communist regime, her childhood was shaped by both limitations and inspirations. Koja’s aunts, skilled seamstresses, instilled in her a love for style and the craft of sewing. Her father, a revered volleyball coach, cultivated her relentless work ethic and unwavering discipline.

These formative experiences set the stage for her future success. After the fall of communism, Koja’s family relocated to Italy, where she pursued a career as a professional volleyball player. Her athletic prowess and statuesque frame caught the attention of fashion insiders, and she soon became a sought-after fit model for esteemed brands like Blumarine, Parah, and Off Limits.

However, a shoulder injury brought her volleyball career to an abrupt end. Rather than succumb to adversity, Koja seized the opportunity to immerse herself in the fashion industry. She studied pattern making, textiles, and artistic design, all while nurturing her burgeoning creative vision. A year-long journey around the world further enriched her perspective, culminating in her arrival in Miami, Florida. The city’s vibrant, multicultural atmosphere—a kaleidoscope of exotic colors and textures—became the fertile ground where Ema Koja would plant the seeds of her fashion revolution.

The Ema Savahl Legacy

Today, Koja’s brand, Ema Savahl Couture, is synonymous with elegance and innovation. Each garment is still meticulously handmade and hand-painted in her Miami atelier, a commitment to craftsmanship that has endured since the brand’s inception in 1996. From cocktail dresses to bridal gowns, her pieces are celebrated for their versatility and practicality. They are lightweight, travel-friendly, and even hand-washable, making them as functional as they are exquisite.

As Ema Koja continues to push the boundaries of fashion, her influence shows no signs of waning. Her journey – from a young girl in communist Albania to a trailblazing designer in the United States – is a powerful reminder of the transformative power of creativity and determination. Through her mentorship, Koja is ensuring that the next generation of designers is equipped to carry the torch forward, creating “ex nihilo” – out of nothing – just as she has.

Masquerade Magazine wishes to thank Chelsea Burke, Designer Lead, of the Miami Swim Week Shows, for assistance (https://dcswimweek.com/) and Thomas Concordia (http://concordiaproductionsinc.com/) for the amazing photography published in this magazine cover story.